The Simple Soup Recipe You’ll Be Making All Winter

Table of Contents MAGIC TOUCH Brown butter gives the crunchy streusel topping on this butternut…

Table of Contents

MAGIC TOUCH Brown butter gives the crunchy streusel topping on this butternut squash soup a delicious nutty depth.



Photo:

JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY TYNA HOANG, PROP STYLING BY BETH PAKRADOONI

The Chef: Anne Quatrano



Illustration:

Michael Hoeweler

Her Restaurants: Bacchanalia, Floataway Café, Star Provisions Market and Café, W.H. Stiles Fish Camp, all in Atlanta

What She’s Known For: Lifting up Atlanta’s food scene with elegant farm-to-table dishes for over 25 years. Timeless ingredient-focused cooking and smart moves that reveal the chef’s individual style.

SOUP SEASON is officially upon us. This one, chef

Anne Quatrano’s

second Slow Food Fast recipe, combines butternut squash with a little maple syrup and heavy cream, plus warming ginger and nutmeg. The garnish is a brown-butter streusel made with toasted oats and pumpkin seeds. “I love the crunchy texture against the velvety soup,” Ms. Quatrano said.

The recipe originated over a decade ago at Bacchanalia, the oldest of Ms. Quatrano’s Atlanta restaurants. “I’d say the throughline of all our places is our commitment to ingredients,” the chef said. “When we opened Bacchanalia in 1993 we started a farm, growing our own vegetables on 60 acres that had been in my family for decades.” They’re still at it, and at this time of year, the farm produces plenty of squash.

“This soup is hard to mess up because you really can’t overcook squash,” Ms. Quatrano said. She added that you can make this vegetarian by swapping in vegetable stock for chicken stock. You can also make it vegan by omitting the cream and using olive oil instead of butter. You’ll no doubt find your own spin for this highly adaptable recipe. It’s stood the test of time for a reason.

—Kitty Greenwald is a chef, food writer and the co-author of ‘Slow Fires’ (Clarkson Potter)

To explore and search through all our recipes, check out the new WSJ Recipes page.

Soup season is officially upon us. This one, chef Anne Quatrano’s second Slow Food Fast recipe, combines butternut squash with a little maple syrup and heavy cream, plus warming ginger and nutmeg. The garnish is a brown-butter streusel made with toasted oats and pumpkin seeds. “I love the crunchy texture against the velvety soup,” Ms. Quatrano said.

JENNY HUANG FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, FOOD STYLING BY TYNA HOANG, PROP STYLING BY BETH PAKRADOONI

Ingredients

  • ½ cup old-fashioned oats
  • ½ cup unsalted pepitas, roughly chopped
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • ½ cup all-purpose flour
  • Kosher salt
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
  • 2 whole medium butternut squashes, peeled, seeded and cut into 2-inch cubes
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 2 tablespoons maple syrup
  • ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • Ground white pepper

Directions

  1. Make the streusel topping: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine oats, pepitas, brown sugar, flour and a generous pinch of salt, and mix to combine.
  2. Set a small, heavy pan over medium-low heat and add 4 tablespoons butter. As butter melts and bubbles, watch it carefully: Browned butter blackens and turns acrid quickly. Once butter is golden brown and smells nutty, after 1-2 minutes, drizzle it over oat mixture, and toss to combine. Spread mixture evenly across prepared baking sheet. Bake until mixture turns light brown and crumbly, about 15 minutes. Let streusel cool at least 5 minutes.
  3. As the streusel bakes and cools, make the soup: Pour stock into a wide pot and bring it to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add squash and bring liquid back to a boil. Reduce heat to maintain an active simmer and cook until squash is fully tender and, at the end, submerged by about 1 inch of liquid, about 15 minutes. If necessary, add splashes of water to keep squash submerged in just enough liquid. Use a blender or food processor to purée squash and its cooking liquid until completely smooth. Pass soup through a fine-mesh sieve, back into its pot, so the consistency becomes very silky. Set pot over low heat and stir in cream, maple syrup, 2 tablespoons butter, ginger and nutmeg until thoroughly incorporated. Season with salt and white pepper to taste.
  4. Ladle hot soup into serving bowls and scatter streusel overtop. Serve immediately.

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